Top 10 Features Of a Profitable Rental Property

From the first decision to invest in real estate to actually buying your first rental property, there is a lot of work to be done. This task may be daunting for the first-time investor. Owning property is a tough business and the field is peppered with land mines that can obliterate your returns. Here we’ll take a look at the top 10 things you should consider when shopping for an income property.

Starting Your Search

Although you may want a real estate agent to help you complete the purchase of a rental property, you should start searching for your investment on your own. Having an agent can bring unnecessary pressure to buy before you have found a property that suits you. The most important thing is to take an unbiased approach to all the properties and neighborhoods within your investing range.

Your investing range will be limited by whether you intend to actively manage the property (be a landlord) or hire someone else to manage it. If you intend to actively manage, you should not get a property that’s too far away from where you live. If you are going to get a property management company to look after it for you, your proximity to the property will be less of an issue.

Let’s take a look at the top 10 things you should consider when searching for the right rental property.

  1. Neighborhood: The quality of the neighborhood in which you buy will influence both the types of tenants you attract and how often you face vacancies. For example, if you buy in a neighborhood near a university, the chances are that your pool of potential tenants will be mainly made up of students and that you will face vacancies on a fairly regular basis (during summer, when students tend to return back home).
  2. Property Taxes: Property taxes are not standard across the board and, as an investor planning to make money from rent, you want to be aware of how much you will be losing to taxes. High property taxes may not always be a bad thing if the neighborhood is an excellent place for long-term tenants, but the two do not necessarily go hand in hand. The town’s assessment office will have all the tax information on file or you can talk to homeowners within the community.
  3. Schools: Your tenants may have or be planning to have children, so they will need a place near a decent school. When you have found a good property near a school, you will want to check the quality of the school as this can affect the value of your investment. If the school has a poor reputation, prices will reflect your property’s value poorly. Although you will be mostly concerned about the monthly cash flow, the overall value of your rental property comes in to play when you eventually sell it.
  4. Crime: No one wants to live next door to a hot spot for criminal activity. Go to the police or the public library for accurate crime statistics for various neighborhoods, rather than asking the homeowner who is hoping to sell the house to you. Items to look for are vandalism rates, serious crimes, petty crimes and recent activity (growth or slow down). You might also want to ask about the frequency of police presence in your neighborhood.
  5. Job Market: Locations with growing employment opportunities tend to attract more people – meaning more tenants. To find out how a particular area rates, go directly to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics or to your local library. If you notice an announcement for a new major company moving to the area, you can rest assured that workers will flock to the area. However, this may cause house prices to react (either negatively or positively) depending on the corporation moving in. The fallback point here is that if you would like the new corporation in your backyard, your renters probably will too.
  6. Amenities: Check the potential neighborhood for current or projected parks, malls, gyms, movie theaters, public transport hubs and all the other perks that attract renters. Cities, and sometimes even particular areas of a city, have loads of promotional literature that will give you an idea of where the best blend of public amenities and private property can be found.
  7. Building Permits and Future Development: The municipal planning department will have information on all the new development that is coming or has been zoned into the area. If there are many new condos, business parks or malls going up in your area, it is probably a good growth area. However, watch out for new developments that could hurt the price of surrounding properties by, for example, causing the loss of an activity-friendly green space. The additional condos and/or new housing could also provide competition for your renters, so be aware of that possibility.
  8. Number of Listings and Vacancies: If there is an unusually high number of listings for one particular neighborhood, this can either signal a seasonal cycle or a neighborhood that has “gone bad.” Make sure you figure out which it is before you buy in. You should also determine whether you can cover for any seasonal fluctuations in vacancies.Similar to listings, the vacancy rates will give you an idea of how successful you will be at attracting tenants. High vacancy rates force landlords to lower rents in order to snap up tenants – low vacancy rates allow landlords to raise rental rates.
  9. Rents: Rental income will be the bread and butter of your rental property, so you need to know what the average rent in the area is. If charging the average rent is not going to be enough to cover your mortgage payment, taxes and other expenses, then you have to keep looking. Be sure to research the area well enough to gauge where the area will be headed in the next five years. If you can afford the area now, but major improvements are in store and property taxes are expected to increase, then what could be affordable now may mean bankruptcy later.
  10. Natural Disasters: Insurance is another expense that you will have to subtract from your returns, so it is good to know just how much you will need to carry. If an area is prone to earthquakes or flooding, paying for the extra insurance can eat away at your rental income.

Getting Information

Talk to renters as well as homeowners in the neighborhood. Renters will be far more honest about the negative aspects of the area because they have no investment in it. If you are set on a particular neighborhood, try to visit it at different times on different days of the week to see your future neighbors in action.

The Physical Property

In general, the best investment property for beginners is a residential, single-family dwelling or a condominium. Condos are low maintenance because the condo association is there to help with many of the external repairs, leaving you to worry about the interior. Because condos are not truly independent living units, however, they tend to garner lower rents and appreciate more slowly than single-family homes. (For more insight, read An Introduction to Buying A Condominium and Does Condo Life Suit You?)

Single-family homes tend to attract longer-term renters in the form of families and couples. The reason families, or two adults in a relationship, are generally better tenants than one person is because they are more likely to be financially stable and pay the rent regularly. This owes to the simple fact that two can live almost as cheaply as one (as far as food, rent and utilities go) while still enjoying dual income. As a landlord, you want to find a property and a neighborhood that is going to attract that type of demographic.

When you have the neighborhood narrowed down, look for a property that has appreciation potential and a good projected cash flow. Check out properties that are more expensive than you can afford as well as those within your reach – real estate can often sell below its listing price. Watch the listing prices of other properties and ask buyers about the final selling price to get an idea of what the market value really is in the neighborhood. For appreciation potential, you are looking for a property that, with a few cosmetic changes and some renovations, will attract tenants who are willing to pay out higher rents. This will also serve you well by raising the value of the house if you choose to sell it after a few years.

As far as cash flow, you are going to have to make an informed guess. Take the average rent for the neighborhood and subtract your expected monthly mortgage payment, property taxes (divided by 12 months), insurance costs (also divided by 12) and a generous allowance for maintenance and repairs. Don’t lie to yourself and underestimate the cost of maintenance and repairs or you will pay for it once the deal is done. If all these figures come out even or, better yet, with a little left over, you can now get your real estate agent to submit an offer and, if everything goes well, order business cards with Landlord emblazoned across the top.

The Bottom Line

Every state has good cities, every city has good neighborhoods and every neighborhood has good properties, but it takes a lot of footwork and research to line up all three. When you do find your ideal rental property, keep your expectations realistic and make sure that your own finances are in a healthy enough state that you can wait for the property to start producing cash flow rather than needing it desperately. Real estate investing doesn’t start with buying a rental property – it begins with creating the financial situation where you can buy a rental property.

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Everyone Says Buy Index Funds, But How Do You Pick The Right Index?

Stepping up to the plate to take your first swing at ETF investing has never been simpler and more cost effective, but as eager investors approach these products, are they really understanding the differences in portfolio composition? Index formulation methodology could likely have a much greater impact on bottom-line performance than fee structure over time. Now that we have a fair amount of price history for comparative analysis, the differences in index construction can amount to a sizeable margin of total return over time. This is precisely why many exchange-traded product providers are setting their sights on challenging the traditional cap-weighted styles for more exotic, alternative, or smart index strategies. However, these innovative strategies still have a big hill to climb, as cap-weighted indexes still control the largest share of assets under management in the ETF universe.There is no hard and fast rule to index selection, which is why investors need to be more conscious than ever about the options that are available and how to ultimately select an appropriate fund.

The Basics

There are three primary index construction techniques that publishers use to construct the allocation size in an equity-oriented ETF: market capitalization weight, equal weight, and fundamental weight. Let’s begin with the index blueprint that most investors are familiar with: market-cap weighting sizes constituent securities according to the total market value of their outstanding shares. In a real world example, examining the PowerShares NASDAQ 100 ETF (QQQ), Apple AAPL (AAPL) occupies roughly 12.5% of the fund due to its $500 billion market cap. On the flip side, the smallest holding, F5 Networks FFIV (FFIV), only occupies 0.17% due to its much smaller $7 billion market cap. Quite simply, a cap-weighted index will advance or decline more dramatically in value in response to the changes in market value of larger holdings vs. smaller holdings. One inherent benefit to this style of index composition is that traditionally larger, more established companies will present less volatility than smaller ones. However, it’s also important to bear in mind that investors who select cap-weighted indexes are essentially disproportionately tilting their equity allocations toward larger companies that can inhibit performance characteristics over the long term. In a recent study by Goldman Sachs Asset Management that examined the stock market over the past 20 years, it was proven that small and mid-cap stocks have outperformed large cap stocks by a fair margin while presenting only slightly higher volatility. Using the same scenario, equal weight indexes are often created using the same list of stocks as cap-weighted indexes. However, instead of examining the size of the company, an equal weight index allocates identical proportion amongst all the constituent securities. So, Apple Inc. would carry an identical weight within the index as F5 Networks, which is the goal behind the NASDAQ-100 Equal Weighted Index. At first glance, this type of weighting strategy might seem illogical in relation to the aforementioned cap weighted style, as investors may instinctively want to own a larger share of mature, successful companies. But, it can often be prudent to carry a larger slice of the pie in small and medium capitalization companies in a rising market environment.

Using a relevant 2013 performance comparison, the cap-weighted SPDR S&P 500 ETF (SPY) has gained 28.97%, while the Guggenheim Equal Weight S&P 500 ETF (RSP) is up 31.74%, a divergence of 2.77%. In comparison, RSP carries an expense ratio nearly four times higher than SPY at 0.40%, making for a compelling value proposition even in light of a higher fee structure. Investors should also be mindful that a larger portion of their invested capital is allocated to companies that are smaller in size, which has been known to exhibit higher beta over time. Relatively new when compared to the other two strategies, the last type of index methodology is a fundamentally weighted group of stocks. These indexes are developed to account for comparable company metrics such as book value, earnings, revenue, or even dividend rates. Companies exhibiting the strongest traits based upon the screening methodology are then assigned the largest weight within the index. The beauty of fundamentally allocating to companies using performance based metrics is the ability to overweight a company that is currently undervalued by the market, and vice-versa for overvalued examples. It also gives investors the ability to zero in on a specific metric, such as free cash flow, and apply that metric across a single sector. A striking example illustrating the effectiveness of fundamentally weighted strategies could be made using the First Trust Consumer Staples SPLS AlphaDex ETF (FXG) and the SPDR Consumer Staples ETF (XLP). FXG is currently up 39.83% year-to-date, while XLP has risen 25.44% through the same time frame, totaling a staggering divergence of 14.39%.

Selection and Application

Choosing the right index for your personal needs doesn’t come down to typical investment roadblocks such as size or accessibility, but rather your individual goals and tolerance for volatility. In other words, investors have become accustomed to traditional market-cap weighted indexes due to their long running history. This is precisely why you should ask yourself whether you feel comfortable stepping outside the classical approach to index investing. In reality, you could conceivably pay a higher fee in order to gain the potential reward that the index you choose hits the market’s sweet spot. As demand evolves for more complicated and specific benchmarks, index construction is growing far more complex. Regardless of strategy, it is imperative that investors demand that index providers bring the highest quality, objective, transparent and rules-based indexes to the market. Indexers must ensure that they have the best available data and technology to match the growing complexities, and methodologies must remain open and transparent to allow for optimal tracking by investors, product issuers and traders. The overarching conclusion that can be drawn from the differences between these three strategies is the universal shift from overweight positions in large well-known names to concentrated positions in smaller, more nimble, or fundamentally sound companies. These traits should immediately appeal to those investors seeking the chance to outperform traditional benchmark indexes, but it will likely come with the cost of increased volatility over time. Conversely, cap weighted indexes might still be the right fit for investors who believe in the strength of large companies to dominate a specific segment of the market, and don’t want to risk the chances of underperforming traditional market barometers. Undoubtedly, the market for alternative index strategies is growing and attracting assets. Educating yourself on the intricacies of these new products and their potential benefits will ultimately strengthen your investment selection process. Performing your own due diligence alongside your individual goals should lead you down the path of picking the appropriate index that meets your unique investment needs.

*Performance data provided by Yahoo! Finance Through November 30th, 2013

1 Goldman Sachs Asset Management White Paper “The Case for Mid-Cap Investing” June 2013, p. 2 [PDF]

The views and opinions expressed herein are the views and opinions of the author and do not necessarily reflect those of Nasdaq, Inc.

‘What The Heck Is A 401k?’ And Other Investing Questions You’re Too Embarrassed To Ask

Before I started my job here at MoneyAffairs, I went around to some of my friends and asked them what they’d like to see me cover. What, if anything, confused them most about the world of finance? What were they too embarrassed to ask a professional? It was in the middle of one of these conversations that one friend burst out, “What the eff is a 401k?”

I laughed, then realized she was serious. (Let’s dispense with the mystery, for all of you who have asked this very question: So named for the part of the internal revenue code that authorized its creation, a 401k is a workplace savings plan that lets employees invest a portion of their paycheck before taxes are taken out. The savings can grow tax free until retirement, at which point withdrawals will be taxed as income. A large majority of employers will match an employee’s contribution – up to a point – thereby boosting the employee’s savings rate.)

Fortunately for her wallet – and financial future – this friend was saving at a rate above the recommended 10% of her income; such is the beauty of a workplace savings program with auto-enrollment and a more-than 5% employer match. But not every employee is so lucky. Only about half of Americans work for a company that offers a 401k, and of those, recent studies show, little more than a third of companies sweep their employees into the plan automatically. This means that the majority of you have to actively open a retirement account on your own if you want any hope of building a nestegg for your golden years.  And if inertia is one of the biggest obstacles to success in savings, imagine how hard it is to decide to do something you don’t fully understand.

Here’s the good news: you don’t have to be an expert in order to start saving for retirement. You just have to – at least in the beginning – make the decision to save and, as Nike has told us for years, just do it.

“You don’t actually have to know how a transmission works in order to successfully drive a car,” reasons Stuart Ritter, a financial planner with T. Rowe Price. “Likewise, you don’t have to know what a price to earnings ratio is in order to invest and achieve your financial goal. You don’t have to know all the answers to all the questions before you start.

Stephany Kirkpatrick, a senior director of financial planning at LearnVest, agrees with Ritter. “The advice I give to clients is this: if you’re learning something new about investing, don’t let that hold you back from continuing to put money away for retirement,” she says.  “It’s not what perfect stock you pick, what is important is that you actively save.”

They’re both right. That being said, there might be some questions you have that feel too basic to even begin to take their advice. With that in mind, here are some questions – along with the answers! – about investing that you might be too afraid to ask:

What exactly is “the market”? When someone refers to the market, they’re talking about the stock market – which, in turn, is shorthand for the three major stock indices: the S&P 500, the Nasdaq and the Dow Jones Industrial Average. The S&P 500 is an index of the 500 most widely-held companies (i.e, the stocks that the most people own) and is seen by many as one of the best ways to track the U.S. economy. The Nasdaq index tracks 4,000 stocks that are listed on the Nasdaq exchange (which, alongside the New York Stock Exchange, is where people can buy and sell stocks). The 4,000 stocks it tracks are weighted towards the information technology sector, leading many to nickname the Nasdaq the “blue chip” index. And the Dow Jones Industrial Average is the third major stock index: first calculated in 1896, the Dow is comprised of 30 well-known companies that have changed 58 times since the index’s inception. While the Dow was initially created to reflect the American industrial sector (hence the name), its current components include the likes of Disney, Microsoft, Apple, Coca-Cola and Nike.

LearnVest’s Kirkpatrick says that when people refer to “the market,” they usually are referring to the Dow – but because some people might mean S&P or Nasdaq when they say “the market’s up!” it can’t hurt to ask for clarification if you’re not sure.

What’s a 401k? Only about half of American workers have access to a 401k, which is a workplace savings plan that lets employees invest a portion of their paycheck before taxes are taken out. The savings can grow tax free until retirement, at which point withdrawals will be taxed as ordinary income. A large majority of employers will match an employee’s contribution – up to a point – thereby boosting the employee’s savings rate.

What’s an IRA? IRA stands for “individual retirement account (or arrangement)” and  it allows you to save money for retirement even if you don’t have a 401k from your employers. There are two main types of IRAs: a traditional IRA, which functions nearly identically to a 401k, as taxes come out on withdrawals, and a Roth IRA, in which you pay taxes on the front end but can withdraw money in retirement tax free. (Note that your contributions to a traditional IRA may or may not be tax deductible, depending on your income.)

Why do I need a 401k or IRA, anyway – especially if I’m buried in student loan debt? The short answer is: because if you want to stop working someday, you’ll still need money to live. The long answer is: because the earlier you start saving, the more time your money has to grow, and thanks to the beauty of compound interest, starting to save at an early age can mean a six-figure difference in retirement.

(Note that if you have private loans with very high rates — say, north of 7% or 8% — some financial experts acknowledge the value of getting rid of that debt before you start putting extra money into your 401k, since avoiding the compound interest of the loan is the same as getting a 6% or 7% return in the market. But before you do anything — pay debt, put money in a 401k, etc — you must have an emergency fund! Your debt-free existence won’t mean squat if your car breaks down and you have to eventually charge the price of the new transmission to your credit card.)

Everyone keeps talking about an employer match… what’s that? It’s the money your employer puts in your 401k for you. Many people call this free money, because that’s really what it is: it’s your employer saying (for example) “if you put 3% of your salary into your 401k, I’ll put 3% of your salary into your 401k.”

T. Rowe Price’s Ritter says, however, that “how much your company matches is a red herring,” because their matching percentage doesn’t necessarily mean that’s your savings goal. “The employer match distracts people from the real number they should be paying attention to, which is 15%. That’s how much [of your take-home pay] you should be putting into an account for retirement every year,” he says. “If your employer is putting in 3%, you need to be putting in 12%.”

(If 15% sounds un-doable, try something lower — like 10%, or even 5% — and work your way up 1% at a time. Eventually, saving 15% will feel like a breeze.)

Should I invest in my 401k even if there’s no match? There’s no rule that says you MUST put money into a 401k (though if your employer offers a match, not saving in yours means leaving free money in the table). The important thing, though, is to save something, somewhere — and ideally somewhere other than a money market fund. If you’d prefer to save in a Roth IRA because you think your tax rate is lower now than it will be when you retire, go for it. If you like the convenience of having savings deposited directly from your paycheck into your 401k, and watching that savings grow tax-free, that’s a fine option, too.

It’s also worth noting that many companies now also offer a Roth option within their 401ks – meaning you can contribute to your workplace plan after-tax and then take the money out in retirement tax free. Again, that’s worth considering if you expect your tax rate to be higher later.

How and how much do I need to have to open a retirement account and start investing? That is a trickier question than you realize, as each bank — or robo-advisor — has a slightly different fee structure. Some will let you open an account for free but have a $3,000 minimum to invest in an index fund; others want you to have that money simply to open an account. You can find a breakdown of some of the most popular savings options — and their fee structures.

What’s an expense ratio, and why are they aren’t the same for every investment? LearnVest’s Kirkpatrick says that fees come up a lot in conversations she has with clients, and the easiest way to explain them is “to think about a budget for a business. That cost can be higher depending on what you as the business owner need to pay people to do.” An expense ratio, therefore, is essentially what you pay someone — usually a fund manager – to invest your money in the market. It comes out of the return you get in a year, so if your investments grew 10% and the expense ratio is 1%, you’ll really walk away with 9% growth.

“What can make an expense ratio more expensive is if the mutual fund is actively managed,” Kirkpatrick explains. “That means there’s a team of mutual funds analysts who all weighin on what the mutual fund should look like – versus a passive fund like an index fund that just follows a stock index. In that case, there aren’t as many salaries to pay, and in turn, fewer expenses to deduct from the fund’s annual return.”

Finally, she notes, paying 1% of your money a year as a fee might not sound like much, but with funds out there charging 0.2% or less, it’s worth it to read the fine print and make sure you’re not giving up more of your return than you need to.

What’s asset allocation? “Asset allocation is the mix of stocks, bonds and cash you have,” Ritter explains. “That’s all it is. How much of your portfolio for a particular goal do you have in stocks, bonds and short term investments?” (There are other asset classes too, like real estate and commodities. But at the most basic level of asset allocation, the three main categories are stocks, bonds and cash.)

Speaking of bonds: stocks make sense to me, but what are bonds? As ‘MoneyAffairs’ Sam Sharf explains here, the easiest way to think about buying a bond is to think about buying debt: you’re essentially lending money to a government or company that needs it. This isn’t because you’re a nice person and want to help Puerto Rico(for instance): you do this because interest is paid on the loan, and as the investor, you get that interest. The more creditworthy the borrower, the lower the interest rate, so when investors want a higher yield, they will sometimes buy what is known as “junk bonds” from companies and governments with lower credit ratings. This whole field is also known as “fixed income investing.”

How can I determine my risk tolerance? If you’ve heard of risk tolerance in life, it’s essentially the same in investing: how much risk are you willing to take in order to get what you want? Stocks have the potential to give you a higher return than cash, but since the stock market can go up and down, stocks are riskier investments in the short term; since the value of cash is relatively stable, keeping your savings in a money market account is a more conservative way to approach things. (But note that over time, inflation can eat away at the value of your cash – so that’s a risk too.) Taking a quiz can help you understand how important it is to you to get a high return — and how we’ll you’ll be able to sleep at night in the process. Vanguard, Wells Fargo and Bankrate.com all offer good risk tolerance and asset allocation quizzes (respectively).

How is an Amortization Schedule Calculated?

A amortization schedule is a table or chart showing each payment on an amortizing loan, including how much of each payment is interest and the amount going towards the principal balance. Thankfully, there are many freely available websites and calculators that create amortization schedules automatically. The downside to this is people are less informed on the mathematical calculations involved in creating the schedule. We provide the step-by-step calculations below for a simple fixed-rate mortgage.

Let’s say you are purchasing a new home for $280,000 with a $30,000 down payment. Your bank agrees to provide you with a $250,000 mortgage at a fixed interest rate of 5% for 30 years. What is your monthly payment? How much money are you paying towards interest and principal each month? Let’s find out.

Determine the total number of payments

In this example, you have to make one payment per month for 30 years. This means you will make 360 payments over the course of the mortgage (12 x 30 = 360).

Determining a monthly payment

If there were no interest rate, determining your monthly rate would be simple: divide the loan amount by the number of payments ($250,000 / 360 = $694.44). Obviously the bank has to make money so the mortgage comes with a 5% interest rate.

It is important to note the 5% is an annual interest rate. Since all the following calculations are based on a monthly payment schedule, the annual rate needs to be converted to a monthly rate. The monthly interest rate would be 0.416% (5% / 12 = 0.416%).

Determining the monthly payment to account for interest requires a complicated formula shown below.

Monthly payment formula for a mortgage

A is the monthly payment, P is the loan’s initial amount, i is the monthly interest rate, and n is the total number of payments.

Using our numbers (P = 250,000, i = 0.416% (i.e. 0.00416), n = 360), the formula yields a monthly payment of $1,342.05.

Determining the total interest

We can now calculate the total cost of the loan since you will make 360 payments of $1,342.05. The total cost is approximately $483,139 (actually $483,139.46 if you don’t round the monthly payment to two decimals). Subtracting away the original loan amount ($250,000) leaves us with the amount of interest: approximately $233,139. So even though the interest rate is only 5%, you almost pay as much in interest as the purchase price!

Use our Amortization Schedule Calculator to view a payment plan for your mortgage.

 

Determining the breakdown of each monthly payment

Even though the monthly payment is fixed, the amount of money paid to interest varies each month. The remaining amount is used to pay off the loan itself. The complicated formula above ensures that after 360 payments, the mortgage balance will be $0.

For the first payment, we already know the total amount is $1,342.05. To determine how much of that goes toward interest, we multiply the remaining balance ($250,000) by the monthly interest rate: 250,000 x 0.416% = $1,041.67. The rest goes toward the mortgage balance ($1,342.05 – $1,041.67 = $300.39). So after the first payment, the remaining amount on the mortgage is $249,699.61 ($250,000 – $300.39 = $249,699.61).

The second payment’s breakdown is similar except the mortgage balance has decreased. So the portion of the payment going toward interest is now slightly less: $1,040.42 ($249,699.61 * 0.416% = $1,040.42).

This process of calculating interest based on the remaining balance continues until the mortgage is paid off. So each month the amount of interest declines and the amount going to paying off the loan increases. After 360 payments, the mortgage is fully paid off.

It is important to note that our calculations do not include any additional costs such as closing costs, property taxes, or mortgage insurance.